Checking and changing your galvanic isolator

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Checking and changing your galvanic isolator

By Capt. Bill Pike

Galvanic Guardian

1 I removed the old galvanic isolator and discovered it was not working.

Now and again, I serendipitously stumble across an onboard problem well before it snowballs into something expensive. For example, I was recently talking with my industrial-electrician brother and the subject of multimeters came up. “You should have one on your boat at all times,” Mike said, “and don’t go chintzy—spend at least $70 and get something decent.” Of course, I took this last bit of advice with a grain of salt—I, like many, have been struggling with boat-related budgetary concerns of late—and purchased something slightly less expensive.

My new Ancor seven-function digital multimeter ($45 at West Marine) was an intriguing device nevertheless, and I simply had to give it a try as soon as I got back aboard Betty Jane. So, in accordance with a test procedure Mike outlined during a subsequent call I made from Betty’s saloon, I shut down my shore power dockside, disconnected the shore power cord from Betty’s transom-mounted power inlet for good measure and then using wire cutters, removed the el cheapo galvanic isolator (boat-related budgetary concerns again) I’d installed in the lazarette two years before. The plan was to give it a checkup while parenthetically checking out the new multimeter.  READ ARTICLE

Michael James
Michael James
Michael James has been with Murray Yacht Sales since 1995 and is in the the New Orleans office.

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